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Apr 01, 2018
Jul 02, 2024
John
Waterman
73
28
66 inches
143 lbs
White / Caucasian
Male
In the vast, icy wilderness of Denali National Park and Preserve in Alaska, the story of 28-year-old John Mallon Waterman unfolded into a perplexing mystery. On April 1, 1981, the highly experienced and gifted climber embarked on a daring solo ascent of Mount McKinley, now known as Denali. He was last seen by a fellow climber, Jay Kerr, after leaving the Sheldon Amphitheater's Mountain House. Waterman was heading up the northwest fork of the Ruth Glacier, pulling a red plastic sled and navigating the heavily crevassed terrain without ropes. His intended route was the formidable East Buttress, a challenging and audacious goal, especially for a solo climber in the harsh Alaskan conditions. This ambitious undertaking would be the last time anyone would see John Waterman. Waterman, a figure of legendary status in the climbing community for his solo accomplishments, was known for his minimalist approach. For this expedition, his supplies were alarmingly sparse, consisting of just 14 days' worth of food—powdered milk, honey, sugar, and flour. He carried no tent or sleeping bag, opting instead for a bivi sack and a snowmobile suit. His other gear included VB boots, a red plastic sled, snowshoes, and approximately 20 wands for marking his trail. Before setting out, in a move that would later seem ominous, Waterman returned a CB radio he usually borrowed for his climbs, stating he didn't think he would need it for this trip. Friends and fellow climbers had noticed a change in him leading up to this expedition, with one friend describing him as "being less cautious and more run down" than usual. As the days turned into weeks with no word from Waterman, concern mounted. He was five days overdue based on his limited food supply when the decision was made to initiate an extensive search. Despite the challenging weather conditions, which included high winds and snowfall that obscured any tracks, search efforts were launched. Air and ground crews scoured the vast and treacherous landscape of the Ruth Glacier and the East Buttress. Pilots flew numerous sorties, covering a large area on the southeast, east, and north sides of the mountain. An old campsite was discovered, but there were no definitive signs of Waterman himself. The rugged terrain, prone to crevasses and avalanches, presented countless dangers. It is believed he may have fallen into a crevasse, been caught in an avalanche, or succumbed to exposure given his minimal gear. The comprehensive searches ultimately proved unsuccessful, and John Waterman was never found. The case remains a somber reminder of the unforgiving nature of the Alaskan wilderness and the inherent risks of solo mountaineering, leaving behind an enduring mystery and the memory of a climber who pushed the boundaries of his sport.
Apr 01, 1981
Denali National Park
Alaska
Denali Borough
No
66448
Alaska State Troopers
Anchorage
Alaska
Anchorage Borough
99507
Malia Miller
Missing Persons Clearinghouse Manager
5700 East Tudor Road, Alaska
9072695511
State
Law Enforcement
AK19039776
1981-04-19
Alaska State Troopers
na
Brown
Hazel
Hazel
07/25/2026
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