In the vast and unforgiving wilderness of Alaska, 24-year-old John McKimm Millar, an experienced mountaineer from British Columbia, embarked on a challenging expedition in April 2003. He and his climbing partner, 30-year-old Guy Edwards, set their sights on the formidable Devil's Thumb, a remote and treacherous peak located approximately 30 miles northeast of Petersburg. The pair, accompanied by a third climber, Kai M. Hirvonen, had traveled by boat and then skied for three days across glaciers to reach the base of the mountain they intended to conquer. On April 13, 2003, Millar and Edwards began their ascent of the north face, equipped with enough gear and food for a four to five-day climb. Hirvonen, who did not join them on the ascent, last saw the faint glimmer of their headlamps in the middle of the night, a final, distant image before they vanished into the mountain's imposing shadow.
The climbers were well-prepared, having brought supplies to last for an extended period of climbing in the region. However, the weather in the days following their departure was mostly poor, raising concerns as the planned return date passed. Hirvonen grew worried when his partners did not come back and, fearing they were either in trouble or hunkered down due to the weather, he decided to ski out to seek help. After reaching the head of Thomas Bay, he used a hand-held radio to call for assistance and was picked up by a helicopter. An intermittent search was launched, involving both helicopter and fixed-wing aircraft, but was severely hampered by low clouds and worsening weather conditions. Pilots who were able to get near the mountain noted that there had been recent avalanches in the area, a grim sign of the potential dangers the climbers faced.
Despite the efforts of search teams, no trace of John Millar or Guy Edwards was ever found. The extensive helicopter searches of the area revealed nothing, and after nearly a week of searching with no results, the Alaska State Troopers made the difficult decision to call off the official search. The Devil's Thumb is known for its extreme danger, with a history of treacherous conditions including bad weather, unstable rock, and frequent avalanches that have thwarted many expeditions over the years. The disappearance of the two experienced Canadian climbers serves as a tragic reminder of the unforgiving nature of the mountain. John Millar and Guy Edwards are presumed to be deceased, lost to the perilous face of the Devil's Thumb during their ambitious and ultimately fatal expedition.
Last Seen: Apr 14, 2003
